Build a Live Edge Epoxy Resin Table

Learn how to build a Live Edge Epoxy Resin Table

HERE ARE THE STEPS TO FOLLOW DURING A CASTING OF A RIVER TABLE: Build a Live Edge Epoxy Resin Table.

STEP 1 – Select your wood

When making Select the wood to be used: We recommend medium to high density wood. Make sure there is no contamination on the wood (grease, oil, silicone, dust) which could cause fish eyes and alter the resin. Cut your Live Edge according to the size of your project. Once cut to the correct dimensions, it will be possible to create your mold.

STEP 2 – Ensure the lowest possible humidity level

Ensure the lowest possible humidity level in the wood. Wood is a hygroscopic material. If your wood is too wet, warping may occur and cause the resin to crack. Wood that has reached a hygrometric balance between 8% and 12% will be ideal.

STEP 3 – Seal your wood

Seal the wood (live Edge), knots and cracks with the CHILL SEALER (2:1) making sure to apply a minimum of 1-2 coats. If done correctly, this procedure will prevent bubbles from escaping during the exothermic reaction. Using  the CHILL SEALER (2:1) low viscosity epoxy seal coat (2:1), mix two parts resin to one part hardener in a graduated container and mix a maximum amount of 300-600ml. Mix the resin for 3-4 minutes. Using a brush or roller coat all sides of your wood in contact with the resin. This step will create a barrier that helps eliminate bubbles and eliminate the presence of moisture. Let the layer of CHILL SEALER harden for 6-8 hours at 72F/22C. Usually it will be possible to pour the next day without problems.

STEP 4 – Build your mold

In order to make a mold for a resin table, we recommend using MDF or melamine. Once the material of your mold has been cut, it is possible to use two types of techniques to ensure that the epoxy does not stick to your mold. First, use a silicone-based release agent – CHILL RELEASE 110. Apply 2-3 coats with an interval of 15 minutes and blot excess with a clean cloth. It is also possible to use TUCK-TAPE or TYVEK tape on the interior surfaces of the mold. Make sure all sides of the mold are sealed or the epoxy will stick to the mold. In order to add additional protection, it is important to apply silicone on all the interior angles as well as the exterior insertions of the mold in order to prevent the epoxy from leaking outside your mold.

Prepare your mold by applying CHILL RELEASE 110  ( Liquid silicone)  in 2-3 coats depending on the porosity of the latter. Let stand for about 15 minutes at 22C/72F between layers. Make sure you apply it over the entire surface and sides of the mold. Take meticulous care of the 90 degree angles of the mold. Always use a clean cotton cloth or a clean brush that has never been used and is completely free of contamination.

Pour a thin layer of resin in the mold before placing the piece of wood in it, which will avoid the possible phenomenon of “chimney” that is an exhaust of air coming from the interface of the mold and the piece of wood. Leave about 30-60 minutes so that the resin can travel under the piece of wood and evacuate all the air housed under it. Note that it is sometimes difficult to completely remove the air under the piece of wood.

STEP 4- Secure the pieces of wood

Secure the piece of wood in the mold with clamps. Making sure the wood is not moving during the curing process is an important part of the success of your project. If the wood is not clamped properly,  the wood could react and move while the epoxy is creating heat.

STEP 5 – Select the right epoxy system

When you are ready to make your pour, you must first have selected the right product for its application. Depending on the measurements and the thickness, it will be necessary to choose a casting system.
  • For a project from 1/2 to 1.5″ we recommend our CHILL ICE 1 (2:1), ideal for smaller/medium projects like coffee tables, river tables 8-12 inches wide with a thickness of 1.5″ maximum.
  • For a 1.5 to 2″ project we recommend our CHILL ICE 2 (2:1). Formulated for edge tables up to 2″ and with greater lengths and widths. Considerable amounts can be cast , all in one pour without the need to cool the system with fans.
  • We also have a system called CHILL DEEP FOR (2:1). This unusual system was formulated for the 1% of projects. With the CHILL DEEP POUR, it is possible to pour 60-100L in a single pour with a thickness between 2-2.5″ without cooling.
Measure the dimensions and use our resin calculator to estimate how much epoxy you will need for your casting. Prepare the required amount of resin by following the recommendations given above. CLICK HERE to calculate the amount of resin needed using our resin calculator.

STEP 6 – Mixing process

Ensure a completely homogeneous mixture (see recommendations given in the mixing section here (LINK)

STEP 7 –

Pour the selected CHILL EPOXY product to the desired thickness. Please note that POLYMÈRES TECHNOLOGIES customer service or its various sales outlets can assist you in choosing the right CHILL EPOXY product for your application.

Build a Live Edge Epoxy Resin Table : IMPORTANT: IT IS POSSIBLE TO CAST IN SUCCESSIVE LAYERS IN ORDER TO AVOID TOO HIGH EXOTHERMIC CURVE IF YOU THINK YOU HAVE SELECTED THE BAD CHILL EPOXY PRODUCTS. IF YOU PREFER TO DO SO, PLEASE NOTE THAT THE POLYMERIZATION PROCESS WILL BE AFFECTED.

STEP 8 – Maintain a stable environment

Maintain a stable environment at 22 degrees C for the duration of the polymerization (may vary depending on the product, mass and thickness). Waiting a minimum of 7 days 22C/72F is required. Naturally, the areas with low volume of resin may not have reached its complete polymerization after this period. Do not worry, if you have proceeded to the precise quantity of parts A and B and mix them completely homogeneously, the thin layers will polymerize slowly.

STEP 9 – Demolding the project

Unmold the piece and secure it on a flat and stable surface for about 7 days at 22 degrees C. Using a shore D durometer (ASTM D-2240), you will be able to know where the hardness curve of the CHILL EPOXY product, thus preventing you from demolding too quickly, the hardness of 81-83 shore D being the final hardness of CHILL EPOXY products. Never unmold your part too quickly, which could cause the part to sag. If this situation arises, it is always possible to rectify this situation (see recommendations above).

Build a Live Edge Epoxy Resin Table : Patience is essential when making a river table. Remember, you can’t pull a flower to make it grow faster.