Tutorials and FAQ’s

ALL you need to know about our products.

How to properly mix epoxy

UPCOMING VIDEO

Getting Started

For what applications can I use CHILL EPOXY™ products?

We provide a full range of epoxy products designed to meet your specifications. This complete line of products has been fully tested by our team before being made available to you, and we can provide the technical assistance to help you choose and work with any one of our different systems. We know our products because we developed AND use them, and we can answer any of your technical questions quickly and accurately.

CHILL EPOXY™ keeps products in stock. These products can be used for:

  • River table
  • Coatings
  • Jewlery
  • General art
  • Painting
  • and so much more…

«When chemistry meets creativity »

We are constantly on the lookout for new, specialized solutions order to help you improve your efficacy and productivity.

Our friendly and enthusiastic staff would love to meet with you to discuss how we can work together. If you are looking for a serious, dynamic, and creative manufactufacturer  and supplier, contact us now!

ortis.

choosing the right product

CHILL EPOXY by Polymeres Technologies is offering specialized epoxy solutions for different application. We have developed over the years several system to answer many needs. From fast setting system to fill cracks, voids, knot or stabilize the wood up to Slow setting for Deep castings.

 

Among the range of CHILL EPOXY products are:
(Description)

CHILL CLEAR:

System used for maximum flows of 0.5 inches. Ideal for stabilizing wood (live edge), making jewelry or artistic parts, prototypes, protecting LED lights or using as brewing resin for small to medium sized parts.  Two versions available, either with 60 or 120 minutes of pot life time at 22 degrees C.

3D CHILL

Easy ratio of 1-1 in volume, this CHILL EPOXY product allows a 3D effect on canvases, wooden surface or different artistic pieces. Applies both vertically and horizontally. Ideal for sealing the sides of raw wood (live edge). Pot life time from 60 minutes to 22 degrees C.

CHILL DIAMOND FAST

EPOXY CHILL system for filling cracks and knots on wooden surfaces.  Ideal also for the manufacture and rapid removal of jewelry or other artistic and industrial pieces. Pot life time of 24 minutes at 22 degrees C. Ratio of 2-1 by volume.

ICE CHILL 1

Medium Setting casting resin for making river tables or projects between 0.5-1.5 inch thick and with a mass of up to 30 liters depending on the design of the river or project.  Low viscosity and quick and efficient off-bubble.

ICE CHILL 2

Epoxide casting resin for making river tables 2 inches thick and with a mass of up to 60 liters depending on the design of the river.  Low viscosity and quick and efficient off-bubble.

CHILL DEEP FOR

Epoxide casting resin for making river tables 2.0-2.5 inches thick and with a mass of up to 90 liters depending on the design of the river.  Low viscosity and quick unwinding and efficiency

What makes CHILL EPOXY™ a premium solution for resins?

 

We selected the best raw materials around the world to formulate the best products.  Compared to others, we always work with specialty raw materials and never use commodity ingredients.  The best results are always reached with this philosophy and our team formulates and produces based on that mindset.  

Are all CHILL EPOXY™ products safe to use?

 The CHILL EPOXY products are 100% solid with no VOC (volatile organic content) or fumes.  This means that you can work safely in keeping in mind that it is a chemical product and you do require to protect yourself with gloves, protective lenses and an apron. It is also non-flammable.  

 

 

Is CHILL EPOXY FOOD safe?

All the CHILL EPOXY™ products are totally without any VOC (Volatile Organic Content) or commodity raw materials which could migrate to the surface. So, they are food safe. However, you require to use a precise mixing ratio and a totally homogeneous mix of the A/B parts to have all molecules to link to each other and create a solid and stable molecule network.   

A “green” epoxy resin. Really?

Like in all other fields, “green” promises are also on the rise in the resin industry.  But does it make sense to announce that a resin is environmentally friendly ? How can we explain that some manufacturers are making that claim ? What do we have to take into account to find out if a resin is truly safe for your health and the environment ?

 Is epoxy resin harmful to your health ?

There are many concerns floating around about epoxy. They often arise because it gets confused with polyester resins, which are made with styrene. Polyester resins are indeed quite malodorous and can release harmful gases.

In contrast, epoxy resins should not cause any undue concerns.  The main known health problem is allergies caused by contact with the skin: dermatitis. As with all allergies, they can be more or less severe, more or less sudden. Some people develop a reaction after a few years with no former problems.

epoxy protection gloves 

 

 

It’s always more prudent to handle resin with gloves, goggles, and protective clothing in order to prevent risks of contact and splashing.

Epoxy (both resin and hardener) does not generally cause major health problems. It is still, however, a chemical. As such it requires taking precautions. We also recommend keeping it out of reach of children (like most household cleaners).

But is it more risky for the environment ? 

Is epoxy resin harmful to the environment ?

As a general rule, epoxy, polyurethane, or silicone, are completely inert once catalysed and thus environmentally safe.

Therefore, when your epoxy resin is completely polymerized, it cannot contaminate the environment.

This is especially true if:

1- The preparation and mix are perfect.  It is therefore crucial to follow the ratio and to mix the resin and hardener adequately to ensure complete polymerization, which means the molecular chain is completely closed. (When all the molecules within the liquid version of parts A and B are assembled once the product is mixed and has solidified)

2- Choosing a resin formulated with 100% solids. This means that the system contains no water or solvent.  With epoxy systems free from Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC), you ensure that once the resin/hardener mix has polymerized, there will be no solvent emanation.

What’s behind the promise of a “green” resin ?

However, the question regarding the pertinence of green resin arises from some products having appeared on the market showcasing the fact that they are formulated using organic ingredients, such as legumes or other plant-based ingredients.

Such an argument should draw the attention of an informed consumer, who should then ask themselves the following questions:

1- What quantity of additives is present in the formula? is the % really there?

2- Is a product automatically “green” because a few plant-based substances are added to the formula (in perhaps infinitesimal doses ?!) ) ? Is the rest of the formula composed of raw materials that are commonly found in epoxy ?

3- How do those ingredients improve the formula and therefore your results when you use that product ?

For now, these questions do not seem to have answers. Worse, this raises even more question about the manufacturer’s need to insist on the innovative nature of this type of formulation in the field of thermosetting resins without any proof or scientific explanation.

In addition, let us push this reasoning even further. What is the legitimacy of diverting agricultural raw materials. Is growing vegetable matter (using pesticides and large amounts of water), then keeping it from the agri-food industry only to add it into chemical formulas, without proof of any benefit, truly environmentally responsible?

In summary: what can we learn from this ? 

To sum it up, the consumer should not let themselves be deceived by nebulous promises of a vaguely vegan or environmentally friendly nature ! In this field, as in others, greenwashing is a marketing weapon used by some manufacturers riding the environmentally friendly trend to sell more product. A green label is never the token of a natural product.

What is the true value of plant-based additives in an epoxy? How does this improve the product ?  Are results improved by a bit of added plant matter ? To this day, no manufacturer has produced solid evidence of any environmental benefit gained from adding a little green into their container and on their label.

When it’s time to choose a resin, product quality should the THE defining criterion.

This quality is probably not related to any plant-based additive. Moreover, the only serious criterion on which you should base your choice of an environmentally-friendly resin is the absence of any VOC.

Remember that prioritizing 100% solids epoxy systems formulated with no VOC, which guarantees high quality raw materials, will also be the safest, most environmentally sound choice !

An informed consumer is forearmed… words to the wise…

What are the best conditions to use CHILL EPOXY™

The temperature must be the closest to 22°C/72F.  Remem 

Temperature 

As you know and based on your geographical location or winter is the cold might affect the curing time of your thermoset CHILL EPOXY™ products. 

 Before going any further, let me give you the definition of a “THERMOSEL RESIN”: 

 A thermosetting resin, often called a thermoset, is a polymer that is irreversibly hardened by curing from a viscous liquid prepolymer or resin. Curing is induced by heat (exotherm) when mixing resin (part A) to a hardener (B). 

I put emphasis here on CURING IS INDUCED BY HEAT (EXOTHERM).   

 This means that if the natural reaction of the mixed parts A and B is reduced by cold, the exotherm level will directly be reduced as well. If it occurs, the set time (polymerization) will take longer because there is less energy for the molecules to link to itself by a covalent link.  

 So, the colder the temperature is in the pouring environment, the longer time the resin takes to fully cured, as simple as that. 

Cold also has an incidence on the viscosity of the resin.  The colder it is, the higher the viscosity will be.  

Keep also in mind that if you work in a cold environment less that 22°C the curing process will be slowed down.  Every 1°C less than 22°C will slow down the curing process by an approximate 10%, so do not minimize this important factor when using our CHILL EPOXY™ products. 

What is it that my resin layer is still sticky in some places?

After 24 hours, if you note that your resin remains sticky, it is very likely that you did not follow strictly the ratio indicated, or that the mixture of part A and part B was not perfectly homogeneous. You can apply a second layer, this time conforming strictly to instructions of use.

Can I make the resins dry faster?

While it is not recommended to add extra heat on epoxy and denature the product, heat is known to make the epoxy cure faster. Once the exothermic reactions is decreasing and the resin’s temperature is lowering down extra heat will help the epoxy close its links faster.

Once the epoxy is no longer liquid, it is possible to increase the room temperature above the recommended pouring and curing temperature of 22-24C (72-74F) to speed up the curing process.

For example, when using the CHILL ICE 2 a slow setting epoxy with a full cure time of 5-7 days depending on the mass, increasing the room temperature passed the 4rd day of curing will speed up the curing process.

 

Is it possible that a thinner layer will take more time to cure than a thicker one?

When part A and part B are mixed, a chemical reaction occurs and creates heat. That is the heat created by the friction of the molecules that will induce the hardening of the resin (note that the ambient temperature will also accelerate the heat).

The more important the mass, the more heat is created inside the mass. The more heat, the faster goes the cure of the resin. Consequently, when the layer is thicker, the resin will cure faster.

Will the resin turn yellow over time?

Our CHILL EPOXY resins are UV-Resistant formulas.

All epoxy will yellow over years.

Nevertheless, some will have better resistance than other and will take up to several years before noticing any changes in color.

Since we use only Premium Raw Materials, we have better resistance than most Casting epoxy.

Our clear epoxy resins have been formulated for indoor applications, but it is the highest UV-resistant found on the market. 

Our resins are definitively much appreciated by artists when painting on white surface or canvas.

 

What is the best time to pour a second layer or multiple layers?

Doing multiple layers is a great way to have more control on the result. This technique is often use to created 3D effects, encapsulate objects or to mix different colors.

The moment to pour a second layer is when the previous layer is still a little bit tacky.

What does tacky means exactly when using epoxy?

Tacky means the epoxy has passed a certain stage during the curing process and is now strong enough to receive a second layer but the molecule chain is not completely close.

A good indication of the “Tacky window” is when you touch the surface and the epoxy doesn’t stick to your finger but leaves a small marks of your fingerprints.

At this stage you will get both a physical and mechanical bonding.

What if I miss this “Tacky window”?

You epoxy is fully cure, don’t worry! As long as the surface is clean and free of any contamination the bonding between the cure layer and new one will be phenomenal. 

How to avoid bubbles? Should I use a torch to remove them?

None of our CHILL EPOXY solutions require any extra work to get rid of the bubbles. Our products are extremely low in viscosity (water like) and the bubbles will pop on their own within less than 20 mins.

Some other epoxy brands might need a torch or heat gun to help eliminate the bubbles.

The extended Pot Life in combination with the  long curing time of must of our products is enough to get rid of them.

CHILL 3D 1:1 is our only thicker epoxy solution. Even with its higher viscosity the CHILL 3D will self-level and pop most of the bubbles within minutes once applied. A quick pass with a Heat Gun over the stubborn ones will be enough to get rid of them.

QUICK TIP to avoid bubbles

  1. Mix slowing but longer too avoid incorporating air while mixing manually
  2. While mixing big quantities using a Jiffy mixing, make sure you don’t create a “VORTEX” by mixing too fast, which will incorporate a lot of air.
  3. Pouring from a corner with a small stream will help the epoxy travel and eliminate bubbles when failing and travelling on the surface.

 

 

What is the Heat resistance of the CHILL PRODUCTS?

All our CHILL EPOXY solution has been testing up to 300F and boiling water without leaving any marks. 

We do not recommend exceeding 300-350F for an extended period of time.

There is absolutely no problem with hot cup of coffee/tea.

For more information on our product’s properties, please refer the the TDS in the product section.

For any additional information, feel free to contact us at support@polymerestechnologies.com

What are the best finishes to use on the CHILL EPOXY products?

The CHILL EPOXY products once cured will give you a nice shinny high gloss finish.

If you are looking to apply a specific product over the wood and epoxy we recommend the Oil Based products. Those will adhere nicely with the epoxy.

Avoid using finished that contain VOC ( volatile organic compounds ) or high level of solvent.

Most commonly used Finished in the wood community will work with our epoxy solution.

We still recommend readind the TDS and make a small test prior to apply a certain finish all over your epoxy section. It is the only ways to validate if you finishes of choice will be compatible with our epoxy.

GUARANTEE
Having no control on the use and applications of those finishes products, the manufacturer and/or distributor cannot guarantee the results achieved. The warranty is therefore limited to the replacement of a product whose user can demonstrate, in a way that is satisfactory to both manufacturer and distributor, that it is in fact defective. Before using this product, the user must ensure that it is appropriate for the chosen purpose.
The user assumes all risks related to this use. The user must ensure that the product meets his or her needs by testing it at the short, medium, and long-term to validate the results in the intended operating conditions and following the prepared instructions. This limited warranty disclaims any liability for indirect, accidental, or special damages. Except for the warranty described above, the user expressly recognizes and accepts that, upon purchase of this product, the manufacturer and/or distributor disclaim any other responsibility and that any other warranties, express or implied, related to a warranty of merchantability and to an implicit warranty related to the quality of materials are expressly excluded.
What can I use inside my mold so the epoxy doesn’t stick?

As you may know epoxy will stick to almost everything except a few things.

There are only a few materials that will allow you to pour the epoxy on without worrying.

The CHEAP, the FAST and the EXPENSIVE

  • CHEAP – Tuck Tape, TYVEK or any polypropylene tape. Applying this tape inside the mold will allow to pour directly on the smooth side of the tape without sticking. It is cheap and can be found in most Hardware Store.

Downside : It take more time to apply and will leave tape marks and imperfection that will need to be sanded or planned.

  •  The FAST – CHILL RELEASE 110 our Silicone based Release agent for epoxy. Comes in liquid form and can be easily applied with a brush or clean cloth. 2 coats ( 15 mins) apart and you are ready to pour. Follow instruction. 

  • The EXPENSIVE –  High-density polyethylene (HDPEor polyethylene high-density (PEHD) is a polyethylene thermoplastic. It comes in 1/2 and 3/4  sheets and is ideal to creates a mold. Epoxy doesn’t stick to HDPE.

Downside: the price and time to create the mold. 

What pigments or dye should be use with CHILL EPOXY?

For best results, we recommend using our CHILL PIGMENTS and CHILL DROPS.

CHILL DROP (OPAQUE /TRANSPARENT) are highly concentrated colors Dyes. Completely compatible with all the products of our CHILL EPOXY line. Strong colors will be achieved by using gradually between 0.0250% up to 5% in weight/volume in the mixture A/B until you reach the desired color.

This pigment meets the European RoHS standard.

AVOID 

Using solvent or alcohol base pigments.

Low-end alcohol-based pigments or food dyes are not compatible with EPOXY CHILL systems and will most likely fade with time.  Always use THE CHILL DROPS pigments from POLYMERS TECHNOLOGIES for better results.

 

The dye I used is fading away!

The pigment has disappeared from my resin!

Low-end alcohol-based pigments or food dyes are not compatible with EPOXY CHILL systems.  Those are not reactive agent and will fade over time . Always use THE CHILL DROPS pigments from POLYMERS TECHNOLOGIES.   

How to find out the quantity of resin you need ?

 

How to find out the quantity of resin you need ?  How much resin will you need for a single coat ? What coverage is allowed with your kit of resin ? Be an informed resin buyer and do your homework first !

USE OUR RESIN CALCULATOR ( LINK)

I/ Calculate the volume of resin to be casted

1/ Find out the  volume  in cubic inches or in cubic centimeters

Before embarking on your project, you should determine what  are the dimensions of your mold and what quantity of resin you need to pour. Make sure your dimensions are given in one single unit.

Length in inches x width in inches x thickness in inches = volume  in cubic inches

 

Length in cm x width in cm x thickness in cm  = volume  in cubic centimeters

2/ Find out how much liters you can pour in such a volume

Volume in cubic inch x 16.38 ml /1000 = Liters

*NB: 1 cubic inch = 16.38 ml

Volume in cubic centimeters /1000 = Liters

Remember to allow at least 3 % more of product to compensate for losses

 

II/ Calculate the coverage allowed by one coat

1/ Find out the quantity of resin contained in your kit in milliliters

If you only know the weight of  your kit of resin, you will need to know the specific gravity of the product.

Example 1:   1 kit of  our product  T-3056  in 4 kg  with a specific gravity of 1.08

In this kit you have  4/ 1.08 = 3.703 liters or 3703 milliliters

Example 2 :  1 kit of Chill Ice 1  format  1.5 Litres = 1500 milliliters

2/ Find our the quantity of resin in cubic inch

Prerequisite : you need to know a theoretical thickness of  one single coat.

With a product like  Chill Ice 1 applied in a theoretical layer of 1/4 inch thick, the quantity of resin in one square foot*  is :

12 x 12 x 0.250 = 36 cubic inch on 1 square foot

*NB: 1 foot  = 12 inches

3/ Find out the auantity of resin on a square foot.

One cubic inch equals  16.38 milliliters

36 x 16.38 = 589.68 milliliter  per square foot

Allow for at least 3 % more of product to compensate for losses ,  thus a total amount of  = 607.37 millilitres

4/  Which format do you need ?

With a 1.5 Liter format that equals 1500 ml,   you can coat

1500/ 607.37 = approx. 2.47 square feet.

 

Mixing process

How should I mix the epoxy for a perfect mix?

MIX OF PARTS A ( RESIN)  AND B ( HARDENER):

It is imperative that parts A and B are mixed in a completely homogeneous manner in order to achieve its complete polymerization.  Always mix parts A and B in a clean round, non-square container (does not allow mixing properly in 90-degree angles).  Be sure to mix well, taking care to scrape the bottom of the container and sides with a clean mixing jiffy and a clean metal spatula of a minimum of 0,500 inches to 2 inches, depending on the volume of resins to be proceeded.

The mixing time should be directly proportional to the amount of resin to be made.  Keep in mind that you can’t mix too long, but a carefree blend will lead to disastrous results.  So take this procedure seriously. 

IMPORTANT:

OUR EXPERIENCE LETS US CONFIRM THAT WHEN MIXING MULTIPLE CONTAINERS OF MULTIPLE LITERS FOR THE CASTING OF RIVER TABLES WITH HIGH VOLUME OF RESIN THE LAST MIXTURES ARE OFTEN MADE QUICKLY FOR CAUSES OF FATIGUE AND ANXIETY TO COMPLETE THE WORK.

SO … PATIENCE, DISCIPLINE AND PERSEVERANCE WILL BE YOUR BEST ALLIES FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR NEXT PROJECT.

 

What to avoid when mixing?

What to avoid when mixing?

Avoid containers that have already been used and mixers that are dirty and not cleaned. Those could contaminate the epoxy.

AVOID

Never use containers with uneven bottom or sides or with beads which do not allow a completely homogeneous mixture. Use containers with smooth bottoms and sides.

 

AVOID (X RED)

Also avoid valves and taps contaminated by systems other than CHILL EPOXY products. Resin work requires a clean environment as well as unused tools and containers. Do not skimp on the purchase of graduated containers and spatulas large enough to obtain. Clean your tools very carefully to avoid any contamination from your future pouring.

CHILL EPOXY offers you the possibility of purchasing graduated containers and metal spatulas of different sizes.

AVOID (X RED)

Avoid mixing with the following items:

Sushi sticks.
Baton pop-century.
Toothpick
Knives
forks
spoons

Preferred: It is important to use the right tools when it comes to mixing resin. Using the wrong mixing cups or mixing tools could result in the epoxy not curing properly due to a lack of homogeneity

– Metallic spatula for small quantity

Flat mixing cup (avoid red cups or cups with a level at the bottom, lids, or rings inside)


– Jiffy mixer for the most part, but also use a metal spatula to scrape any unmix epoxy sticking to the sides and bottom.

Laboratory Mixer

The higher the volume of the container, the more the mixing tool will have to be adapted to the quantity of resin to be mixed. For example, a spatula 1 inch wide should be used for a round container 6 inches in diameter.

A 2 inch diameter spatula should be used for a 12 inch diameter container. A ratio of 6: 1 should be respected.

Of course, a small amount can be done with a metal spatula. A large amount must be done with a mechanical mixer. In order to avoid the introduction of bubbles, mix on medium speed but longer.

IMPORTANT: It is better to mix longer than not enough. Users do not usually take this important procedure seriously enough.

Make sure to mix longer and more efficiently than required because almost 100% of the problems come from a bad calculation of the quantities to be made and or from a bad mixing.

My EPOXY is clear does it mean it’s ready to be poured?

Absolutely NOT. The clearness of the mixture doesn’t meant the epoxy as been mixed long enough to be 100% homogeneous. The epoxy should always be mixing for 8-10 minutes minimum with a metal spatula. Sides and bottom need to be scraped to remove any unmixed epoxy sticking to the sides and bottom.

Pour part A and B consecutively and in this order and mix evenly following the steps mentioned above.

Depending on the quantity to be mixed, mix mechanically or by hand. It is normal to see whitish filaments when the mixing of parts A and B begins.

When the mixture of the two parts becomes clear and limpid, pour into a third container and continue mixing for a few more minutes.

NO INTERFERING ZONES SHALL INDICATE ZONES OF NON-HOMOGENEOUS PRODUCTS BEFORE CASTING.

Storage

Is there a recommended storage temperature?

STORE THE PRODUCTS ON A SHELF AT A TEMPERATURE OF 22C/72F:

The colder the product, the more the exothermic reaction will be reduced and the polymerization time will slow down. In addition, the viscosity of parts A and B will increase and decrease the efficiency of the boiling.

The higher the starting temperatures of parts A and B, the more the reactivity of the system will be accentuated, leading to yellowing, shrinkage and the possibility of cracks. 

Safety

Is it safe to work with epoxy resin ?

There is a great deal of misinformation and even fallacies about epoxy resins. Rumours of potential hazards of epoxy resin proliferate on the Internet. Lots of messages are written, without reliable sources, without sound scientific arguments, mere users presenting themselves as specialists…

From time to time, we may also receive questions from customers worried about possible dangers of handling epoxy resins. Are there any risks in using epoxy resin? What safety precautions should be taken when working with thermosetting resins ? Let’s address these legitimate questions and demystify misconceptions about epoxy.

First of all people often incorrectly equate epoxy with polyester resin, which is composed of styrene (often more than 30-40% depending on the case). As opposed to epoxy, Polyester resin whose emanations are strongly odorous, is very toxic.

Of course, as with any product, there are different qualities of epoxy resin. It is not so unusual to find solvents in many resins sold on the market. But consumers have a right to demand manufacturers to develop formulas without volatile organic compounds (VOCs). This can only be done by thermosetting resins producers committed to develop environmentally safe products by selecting carefully raw materials.

           

Polymères Technologies is committed to protecting the environment and the health and safety of workers. Michel Roy and his team formulate epoxy and polyurethane systems without solvent and phthalates, which for the most part comply with the European RoHS * standard.

Yet, there is no denying that epoxy resin is a chemical product which, like any chemical, requires minimal safety precautions. Most of them are nothing more than common sense standards of conduct that any individual working with chemical product should follow.

For 25 years, our team has built an undeniable specific expertise in thermosetting resins. During all these years,  we have never had serious incident or injury  among our employee or customers.

However epoxy is known for being a skin sensitizer, frequently causing skin allergies such as dermatitis and eczema. Because sensitivity or tolerance may vary greatly from one person to another, the best precaution is therefore to avoid contact and splashing.

Here is a list of recommendations we suggest:

  1. Safe Storage: store product in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area. Keep out of the reach of children (This is by no means different from other common household cleaning products).
  2. Well-ventilated area: avoid working in a confined environment. If not, wear respiratory equipment.
  3. Wear approved safety equipment: full-body covering arms and legs, chemical splash goggles and waterproof gloves.
  4. Read material safety data sheets carefully before use and follow the protection guidelines.

* The European RoHS Directive (2002/95 / EC) aims to limit the use of six hazardous substances.

Learn More Sources:

Http://www.inrs.fr/media.html?refINRS=TA%2066 

Http://www.rohsguide.com/rohs-categories.htm

Does your products contain Solvent or VOC?

The CHILL EPOXY products are 100% solid with no VOC (volatile organic content) or fumes.  This means that you can work safely in keeping in mind that it is a chemical product and you do require to protect yourself with gloves, protective lenses and an apron. It is also non-flammable.  

 

 Is CHILL EPOXY FOOD safe? 

All the CHILL EPOXY™ products are totally without any VOC (Volatile Organic Content) or commodity raw materials which could migrate to the surface. So, they are food safe. However, you require to use a precise mixing ratio and a totally homogeneous mix of the A/B parts to have all molecules to link to each other and create a solid and stable molecule network.   

 

 

 

What is the Shelf Life on the CHILL EPOXY products?

PRECAUTIONS  

Shelf life of product in original closed containers is one (1year

Consult Material Safety Data Sheet prior to use.  

  • Material should be stored on a shelf at 22C/72F 
  •  Once the container is opened POLYMÈRES has no control or responsibility for the shelf life.  
  • It is recommended to follow Provincial and Federal safety regulations. In case of eye contact, rinse well with water, in case of skin contact, rinse with soap and water. Keep away from children. 

NOTE: Even after a year the product is still good and will keep its chemical and physical properties.

Is there a recommended storage temperature?

STORE THE PRODUCTS ON A SHELF AT A TEMPERATURE OF 22C/72F:

The colder the product, the more the exothermic reaction will be reduced and the polymerization time will slow down. In addition, the viscosity of parts A and B will increase and decrease the efficiency of the boiling.

The higher the starting temperatures of parts A and B, the more the reactivity of the system will be accentuated, leading to yellowing, shrinkage and the possibility of cracks. 

Temperature

At what temperature should I pour my epoxy?

WORKING AREA TEMPERATURE:  

It is imperative to work at a temperature of 22 degrees C (72 degrees F) and keep this temperature for the entire job. Avoid lowering the temperature overnight. Also, the work area should be located away from exterior doors that open frequently during the fall and winter periods. Any exposure to cold will slow down the exothermic effect and at the same time, the polymerization time. 

 

It is summer and the temperature is very high, what will happen if I pour?

During periods of summer heat, a high temperature can accentuate the exothermic curve and cause an overheating of the reactivity of the system which generated a possibility of accentuated withdrawal, yellowing and even cracks of the resin.

Remember that you are responsible for the environment in which the resin will be exposed, so you need to understand the basics of resin work before undertaking your project. Hence the importance of validating your work techniques and your environment before carrying out your work. Our customer service can assist you and give you recommendations if required 

Is there a recommended storage temperature?

STORE THE PRODUCTS ON A SHELF AT A TEMPERATURE OF 22C/72F:

The colder the product, the more the exothermic reaction will be reduced and the polymerization time will slow down. In addition, the viscosity of parts A and B will increase and decrease the efficiency of the boiling.

The higher the starting temperatures of parts A and B, the more the reactivity of the system will be accentuated, leading to yellowing, shrinkage and the possibility of cracks. 

Chill Epoxy Products

What is the difference between CHILL ICE 2 and the CHILL DEEP POUR?

THE CHILL ICE 2 is our most popular epoxy solutions and most commonly used epoxy for castings and river table. The CHILL ICE 2 can be poured up to 2 inches thick up to 60L in one single pour without overheating or the need to use fans or AC to reduce the exothermic reactions.

The CHILL DEEP POUR is the CHILL ICE 2’s big brother. With its extended Pot Life, the CHILL DEEP POUR allows your to pour even bigger amount of epoxy without overheating. It will best performed when poured between 2-2.5 inches thick from 60-100L in one single pour. With its controlled exothermic curve the CHILL DEEP POUR doesn’t need extra care or work. No fans or AC should be used with the DEEP POUR.

 

 

What CHILL product should I use to fill small cracks, voids and knots?

To fill small cracks, voids or knots we recommend using our CHILL DIAMOND FAST, our fastest epoxy solutions with a 24 min Pot life and 24-36H cure time depending on the mass. The CHILL DIAMOND FAST is a 2:1 ratio, low viscosity epoxy that will penetrate all the wood cavities for a better bonding.

CLICK HERE (CHILL DIAMOND FAST LINK) for more information.

Also for bigger cracks voids and knots, we recommend using the CHILL CLEAR 2:1 (LINK CHILL CLEAR) which will allow you to fill deeper and larger cracks.

For what applications can I use Flood coat?

In term of flood coat ot top coat, we offer 2 options.

1- CHILL 3D 1:1 ratio, ideal for projects that have live edge, or is not currently in a form. The higher viscosity will allow to pour from the center and will create a certain thickness over your piece. The CHILL 3D is commonly use on canvas, table tops or to created doming effect, lacing and beach scenes.

2- Option two, would be the CHILL CLEAR 2:1, a low viscosity epoxy solutions ideal for flood coat when the project is still in a form. The CHILL CLEAR will self-level and release bubbles within minutes.

 

What is PTEC 8400?

P-TEC 8400 is a 100% solid, thixotropic and low density polyurethane repair paste for the repairing of wood. This product is used for fast repairing of CNC machined molds or prototypes made out from polyurethane boards or wood which show fissures, voids or any defects to the surface. The P-TEC 8400 can also be of good help to repair damaged edges and design modification. This product can also be used as an adhesive to structurally assemble polyurethane boards and wooden panels among others. 

Colors : BLACK, COGNAC & BEIGE

CHARACTERISTICS

  • Easy mixing ratio of 1A/1B volume
  • No shrinkage
  • No odor
  • Fast and easy sanding process
  • Fast setting time of 18 minutes at 22°C.
  • Excellent thermal and dimensional stabilities
  • Compatible with many surface coatings
  • Excellent adhesive for many substrate
  • Comes in 250gr kits or 400ml cartridges

 

Low viscosity VS High Viscosity

We see a lot of people using high viscosity epoxy to fill cracks, voids and knots or even to seal live edge when they should be using a low viscosity epoxy instead.

First of all a high Viscosity epoxy will not release bubbles so easily causing you to use a torch or heat gun to get rid of those.

High viscosity epoxy will not penetratre the wood fibers/cavities as well as a low viscosity epoxy solition giving a poor structural bonding.

When it comes to wood projects, filling cracks or sealing live edge, Low Viscosity epoxy should be a no brainer. 

 

 

Ratio

Is there a way to fix small imperfections?

The best way to get rid of bubbles after your resin has catalyzed is to use sand down the entire surface where you have bubbles on the surface. You can also use a Dramel.

Remove away all the sanding residue and clean-off the surface using isopropyl alcohol.  You can now apply a fresh coat of our CHILL CLEAR™ to obtain a great finish.

Bubbles are not a recurrent problem with our CHILL COLLECTION- but if you do get some, please read our BLOG to learn some great prevention tips and how to fix bubbles if they’ve already popped up!

Is it possible that a thinner layer will take more time to cure than a thicker one?

When part A and part B are mixed, a chemical reaction occurs and creates heat. That is the heat created by the friction of the molecules that will induce the hardening of the resin (note that the ambient temperature will also accelerate the heat).

The more important the mass, the more heat is created inside the mass. The more heat, the faster goes the cure of the resin. Consequently, when the layer is thicker, the resin will cure faster.

For what applications can I use CHILL EPOXY™ products?

We provide a full range of epoxy products designed to meet your specifications. This complete line of products has been fully tested by our team before being made available to you, and we can provide the technical assistance to help you choose and work with any one of our different systems. We know our products because we developed AND use them, and we can answer any of your technical questions quickly and accurately.

CHILL EPOXY™ keeps products in stock. These products can be used for:

  • River table
  • Coatings
  • Jewlery
  • General art
  • Painting
  • and so much more…

«When chemistry meets creativity »

We are constantly on the lookout for new, specialized solutions order to help you improve your efficacy and productivity.

Our friendly and enthusiastic staff would love to meet with you to discuss how we can work together. If you are looking for a serious, dynamic, and creative manufactufacturer  and supplier, contact us now!

ortis.

What is it that my resin layer is still sticky in some places?

After 24 hours, if you note that your resin remains sticky, it is very likely that you did not follow strictly the ratio indicated, or that the mixture of part A and part B was not perfectly homogeneous. You can apply a second layer, this time conforming strictly to instructions of use.

Can I make the resins dry faster?

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Curing process

What elements can slow down the curing process of the CHILL EPOXY TM products?

Before going any further, let me give you the definition of a “THERMOSEL RESIN”: 

 A thermosetting resin, often called a thermoset, is a polymer that is irreversibly hardened by curing from a viscous liquid prepolymer or resin. Curing is induced by heat (exotherm) when mixing resin (part A) to a hardener (B). 

 We put emphasis here on CURING IS INDUCED BY HEAT (EXOTHERM).   

 This means that if the natural reaction of the mixed parts A and B is reduced by cold, the exotherm level will directly be reduced as well. If it occurs, the set time (polymerization) will take longer because there is less energy for the molecules to link to itself by a covalent link.  

 So, the colder the temperature is in the pouring environment, the longer time the resin takes to fully cured, as simple as that. 

 Cold also has an incidence on the viscosity of the resin.  The colder it is, the higher the viscosity will be.  

 Keep also in mind that if you work in a cold environment less that 22°C the curing process will be slowed down.  Every 1°C less than 22°C will slow down the curing process by an approximate 10%, so do not minimize this important factor when using our CHILL EPOXY™ products. 

 

  • Temperature of the product in the containers (if lower than 22°C, it will slow down the curing process. (Every 1°C below 22°C will affect the curing time of an approximate 10%). 

 

  • Precision of the mixing ratio in volume or weight. (If the ratio is not precise, it will avoid the resin to reach its total cure and maximal hardness which can result in soft or flexible epoxy. Follow the instructions. All TDS and instruction sheets can be downloaded on our Product page (LINK)
  • Homogeneity of the mix A/B (If not totally homogeneous, again, it will stop the resin to reach its total cure).  

 

  • Thickness of the pour (If you pour less than the recommendation, the exothermic reaction will not reach its objective and the lack of energy will avoid the resin to cure within the recommended curing time of 7 days at 22°C.   
  • If the temperature of the working area is lower than 22°C/72F, it will slow down the curing process.  Each C/F under 22°C/72F will have an impact on the duration of the curing process.
  • Demolding too fast. If the epoxy hasn’t reach its final harness yet, or is being demolded before the final cure (7days), the epoxy could be flexible or soft. 
  • Design of the pour (length x width x thickness). The mass and dimensions will have an impact on the curing process. For example: A 30L pour with the CHILL ICE 2 will cure faster than a 15L pour with the same product. Same thing with a 2″ thick project versus 1″ thick.

 If you had one of few of these situations, after 7 days, the curing process wasn’t totally reached and the molecular links wasn’t totally closed. 

Another way to see if the Epoxy has reached its final cure is using a Durometer ( see image below) which will indicate the hardness of the resin.  Because we know our Epoxy solutions will reach a specific  hardness and you can verify the hardness of your pour on a daily basis and demold only when it reaches its final hardness.  

DUROMETER SHORE D

 

 

What is the best temperature to pour epoxy?

 The temperature must be the closest to 22°C/72F. Each C/F over 22°C/72F will have an impact on the curing process. To avoid any problem or imperfections follow the instructions and pour in a controlled environment. 

Can I pour during winter or colder temperature?

Here are our recommendations for the use of our CHILL EPOXY™ during the winter period : 

  • When you receive the delivery of your products, do not use it before the resin comes back to 22°C. Based on the temperature level, it might take a few days to get back at room temperature. Generally, if the product is exposed to cold for few days, it will take few days to get back to 22°C. 
  • Keep the containers of resin at 22~24°C (72-74F). As you may know, if the containers are at 22°C, the resin inside the containers will be a few degrees less. 
  • Do not warehouse the products on a cold floor but on a shelf where air can circulate all around the containers. 
  • Do not also warehouse the containers near outside doors where the cold can reach the resin containers. 
  • Plan to use the resin few days in advance so the product will be at ambient temperature.  You can also monitor the resin temperature with an infrared thermometer.  
  • Make sure when you are pouring your CHILL EPOXY™ products that the temperature of the pouring room will remain at all times at 22°C.  Do not low down the temperature at night. 

 

If you follow these parameters, your CHILL EPOXY™ products will act as dictated on the technical data sheet.  All typical and physical properties will be reached (if naturally, you mixing ratio is precise and you A/B mix is totally homogenous) and you will be successful in your projects.     

A lot of people are trying to modify the polymerization structure of an epoxy system by many ways such as fans, heat sink and air conditioning.  If you have to do that, you are not using the appropriate product. Make sure to communicate with us for any required recommendations on the CHILL EPOXY™ to use for your projects. With CHILL EPOXY™ products, no babysitting, just pour and let it go.  

 

Remember, let the resin work for you, do not try to change the DNA of the CHILL EPOXY™ products 

 Would you have any questions, please feel free to send them over to: 

support@polymerestechnologies.com 

 

When should I be demolding my project?

We recommend letting the epoxy cure for 7 days at 22°C/72F.

Especially with our CHILL ICE 2 and CHILL DEEP POUR, both 2 slow setting epoxy meant for bigger project. Demolding before the cure is done can result in flexible/bending epoxy.

If you had one of few of these situations, after 7 days, the curing process wasn’t totally reached and the molecular links wasn’t totally closed so the project sagged.

Another way to see if the epoxy has reached its final cure is using a durometer which will indicate the hardness of the resin.  Because we know our  CHILL EPOXY products will reach a specific hardness ( SEE TDS) you can verify the hardness of your pour on a daily basis and demold only when it reach its final hardness.  

 

Should I be using fans or AC on with the CHILL EPOXY products?

POLYMÈRES TECHNOLOGIES has formulated more than 10 CHILL EPOXY ™ solutions for all your applications because one or two general-purpose products cannot meet all applications.

By choosing the appropriate system for your specific applications you DO NOT NEED TO USE FANS  to cool down our systems. Just follow the instructions and keep respect the recommended temperature. 

Our EPOXY solutions are adapted to specific application and have controlled exothermic reactions.

By using the right product depending on the mass and thickness the CHILL EPOXY products will not overheat, retract or yellow like most epoxy when casting big masses. 

We understand there are many misconceptions regarding Epoxy so fell free to contact us support@polymerestechnologies.com if you have any questions.

Can I make the resins dry faster?

Many elements can slow down the curing process of our different CHILL EPOXY™  solutions (see below).

Solution: To speed up the curing process after 36h in, the room temperature can be turned up a little for a few days to give the epoxy a boost and make it cure faster. Small pieces can be brought close the an heat source ( heater).

Each degree over 27-28C (80-82F) will speed up the curing process.

 

  • Temperature of the product in the containers (if lower than 22°C/72F, it will slow down the curing process. (Every 1°C below 22°C will affect the curing time of an approximate 10%).The mass also will have an impact on the curing time…200gr versus 2L will not have the same curing time!   
  • Precision of the mixing ratio in volume or weight. (If the ratio is not precise, it will avoid the resin to reach its total cure). We recommend to mix with a drill when mixing large quantities and with a metal spatula for small quantities. 
  • Homogeneity of the mix A/B (If not totally homogeneous, again, it will avoid the resin to reach its total cure). You better mix a longer time than not enough. 
  • Thicknesses of the pour: (If you pour less than the recommended thickness for the product, the exotherm will not reach it objective and the lack of energy will avoid the resin to cure within the recommended curing time mentioned for the CHILL EPOXY™ product. It is very important to select the appropriate product for your application.    
  • If the temperature of the working area is lower than 22°C/72F it will slow down the curing process. The ideal temperature if 72-74F! Colder temperatures will slow down the curing process since the epoxy is fighting against the colder temperature and need the extra boost the 72-74F temperature will give it!

 As you can see, there are many reasons why a resin can’t reach its final hardness or will take longer to cure.  

We can’t confirm precisely the number of days it will take for the our products  to totally polymerized because we do not know your environment.

 

Can I add more Hardener ( PART B) to speed up the curing process?

No. Ratio instructions must be strictly observed. Improper mixing or inaccurate measurements prevent the chemical reaction between molecules in Part A and molecules in Part B (polymerization) to occur correctly.   The molecular structure is affected and consequently, your resin will remain sticky, or it will not cure in some places. 

It is a big misconception to think that by adding more Hardener ( PART B) the epoxy will actually cure faster.

By adding more Hardener to a 2:1 or 1:1 ratio CHILL EPOXY product you will change the stoichiometry and also debalance the ratio causing the epoxy to stay soft or sticky.

How is possible that a thinner layer will take more time to cure than a thicker one ?

When part A and part B are mixed, a chemical reaction occurs and creates heat. That heat created by the friction of the molecules will induce the hardening of the resin (note that the ambient temperature will also accelerate the heat).

The more important the mass, the more heat is created inside the mass. The more heat, the faster goes the cure of the resin. Consequently, when the layer is thicker, the resin will cure faster.

PIGMENTS

My pigments sank at the bottom?

Metallic powders to color the epoxy are heavy by nature. If the epoxy is saturated with pigments most of them will tend to sink at the bottom. Only 2-3% of the mass is actually required to color the epoxy.

When most pigments on the market are very heavy, we have selected our CHILL PIGMENTS to be the lowest ” MICRONS” possible to have better dispersion in our CHILL EPOXY systems.

 

What is the best timing to do swirls?

This technique will require a little bit of babysitting to find the perfect window to do the swirls.  The best timing or window is when the epoxy is at an higher viscosity ” Honey” texture. This is where the designs you created will stay visible and won’t fade away.

 

Are all pigments the same?

Unfortunately, all pigment are not the same, expecially the weight of them. Most pigments on the market are not especially made for resin applications and the weight will play an important part.

Make sure to read the TDS an use the pigments with the lowest “Microns”

Troubleshooting

How do I pour a river table? What should I know?

HERE ARE THE STEPS TO FOLLOW DURING A CASTING OF A RIVER TABLE:

STEP 1 –

Select the wood to be used: We recommend medium to high density wood. Make sure there is no contamination on the wood (grease, oil, silicone, dust) which could cause fish eyes and alter the resin.

STEP 2 –

Ensure the lowest possible humidity level in the wood. Wood is a hygroscopic material. If your wood is too wet, warping may occur and cause the resin to crack. Wood that has reached a hygrometric balance between 8% and 12% will be ideal.

STEP 3 –

Seal the wood (live Edge), knots and cracks with the CHILL CLEAR making sure to apply a minimum of 3 coats. If done correctly, this procedure will prevent bubbles from escaping during the exothermic reaction. This wood stabilization step is very important.

STEP 3 –

Prepare your mold by applying CHILL RELEASE 110  ( Liquid silicone)  in 2-3 coats depending on the porosity of the latter.

 

Let stand for about 15 minutes at 22C/72F between layers. Make sure you apply it over the entire surface and sides of the mold. Take meticulous care of the 90 degree angles of the mold. Always use a clean cotton cloth or a clean brush that has never been used and is completely free of contamination.

Pour a thin layer of resin in the mold before placing the piece of wood in it, which will avoid the possible phenomenon of “chimney” that is an exhaust of air coming from the interface of the mold and the piece of wood. Leave about 30-60 minutes so that the resin can travel under the piece of wood and evacuate all the air housed under it. Note that it is sometimes difficult to completely remove the air under the piece of wood.

 

STEP 4-

Secure the piece of wood in the mold with clamps. Making sure the wood is not moving during the curing process is an important part of the success of your project. If the wood is not clamped properly,  the wood could react and move while the epoxy is creating heat.

 

STEP 5 –

Prepare the required amount of resin by following the recommendations given above. CLICK HERE to calculate the amount of resin needed using our resin calculator.

STEP 6 –

Ensure a completely homogeneous mixture (see recommendations given in the mixing section here (LINK)

STEP 7 –

Pour the selected CHILL EPOXY product to the desired thickness. Please note that POLYMÈRES TECHNOLOGIES customer service or its various sales outlets can assist you in choosing the right CHILL EPOXY product for your application.

IMPORTANT: IT IS POSSIBLE TO CAST IN SUCCESSIVE LAYERS IN ORDER TO AVOID TOO HIGH EXOTHERMIC CURVE IF YOU THINK YOU HAVE SELECTED THE BAD CHILL EPOXY PRODUCTS. IF YOU PREFER TO DO SO, PLEASE NOTE THAT THE POLYMERIZATION PROCESS WILL BE AFFECTED.

STEP 8 –

Maintain a stable environment at 22 degrees C for the duration of the polymerization (may vary depending on the product, mass and thickness). A minimum of 7 days 22C/72F is required. Naturally, the areas with low volume of resin may not have reached its complete polymerization after this period. Do not worry, if you have proceeded to the precise quantity of parts A and B and mix them completely homogeneously, the thin layers will polymerize slowly.

STEP 9 –

Unmold the piece and secure it on a flat and stable surface for about 7 days at 22 degrees C. Using a shore D durometer (ASTM D-2240), you will be able to know where the hardness curve of the CHILL EPOXY product, thus preventing you from demolding too quickly, the hardness of 81-83 shore D being the final hardness of CHILL EPOXY products.

Never unmold your part too quickly, which could cause the part to sag. If this situation arises, it is always possible to rectify this situation (see recommendations above).

Patience is essential when making a river table. Remember, you can’t pull a flower to make it grow faster.

( RIVER TABLE) What epoxy should I use for a River table?

In order to choose the CHILL ICE product for river table flows to use for your application, here are the important basic chemical concepts that you need to understand and consider: It is important to understand that during the reactivity of parts A and B, what is called an EXOTHERMIC effect develops, that is to say that there will be a release of heat which manifests itself, which will the system to go from a liquid state to a solid state.

The larger the mass, the more the exothermic effect will manifest. POLYMÈRES TECHNOLOGIES has formulated casting systems suitable for the casting of different masses and thicknesses.

CHILL ICE 1 UP TO 1 INCH UP TO 60 LITER MASS

 

CHILL ICE 2 UP TO 2 INCHES UP TO 60 LITER MASS

CHILL DEEP FOR UP TO 2 INCHES ON A MINIMUM OF 60L MASS

 

If the product is poured in thickness and mass less than recommended, the polymerization process will be slow down considerably, due to a reduced exothermic effect. If the product is poured in thickness and mass higher than recommended, phenomena of yellowing, accentuated shrinkage, and cracks will appear, and this, due to an amplified exothermic effect.

IT IS THEREFORE IMPORTANT TO CHOOSE THE APPROPRIATE SYSTEM FOR A SPECIFIC APPLICATION. WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND PERFORMING VALIDATION TESTS BEFORE PROCEEDING WITH YOUR PROJECT. IT IS IMPERATIVE TO VALIDATE YOUR MEASUREMENT TECHNIQUES OF PARTS A AND B, OF THE HOMOGENEOUS MIXTURE OF THE LATEST AS WELL AS THE ACHIEVEMENT OF TOTAL POLYMERIZATION.

NEVER PROCESS THE PRODUCT (S) WITHOUT PRIOR VALIDATION OF YOUR WORKING TECHNIQUES. IF YOU DO NOT VALIDATE THESE MATTERS, THIS MAY RESULT IN HIGH LOSSES.

 

Is there a way to fix small imperfections? 

The best way to get rid of bubbles after your resin has catalyzed is to use sand down the entire surface where you have bubbles on the surface. You can also use a Dramel. 

Remove away all the sanding residue and clean-off the surface using isopropyl alcohol or water. 

You can now apply a fresh coat of our CHILL DIAMOND F AST or CHILL CLEAR™  both fast setting epoxy to obtain a great finish.   

Bubbles are not a recurrent problem with our CHILL COLLECTION- but if you do get some, please read our BLOG to learn some great prevention tips and how to fix bubbles if they’ve already popped up! 

Do you ship to the United States?

Yes, we ship everywhere in Canada and Unites-States.

What should I use to make my mold when using the CHILL EPOXY line of products?

MATERIAL USED FOR THE MOLD:  

Some materials demonstrate superior insulating qualities than others. The material used to make the mold is important.   Melamine, wood, polyurethane and silicone demonstrate good up to high insulation capacities, so can increase the exothermic effect.

HDPE – High Density polyethylene can also be use to create a mold. The HDPE will create a better and cleaner surface compare to melamine and tape. Epoxy will not adhere to HDPE, therefore you won’t need to apply tape.

AVOID

The metal demonstrates great heat dissipation ( Heat Sink) capacity which will greatly slow down the exothermic effect and directly the polymerization time. The metal will absorb a certain amount of heat required to cure the epoxy.

Only extremely reactive Epoxy solutions need to be slowdown using a metal mold, meaning the epoxy solution is not adapted for this application.

REMEMBER : The epoxy solution should be working for you and not the opposite by adding extra work or costs. Using the right product for the right application is the only way to achieve better long lasting results.

Feel free to contact us if you have any questions or need guidance building your form at support@polymerestechnologies.com

Are all your products on your website?

We offer a vast selection of products but some products are not available online. Please contact us at info@chillepoxy.com for more information or custom products.

How to avoid or get rid of air bubbles formation?

There are many explanations for the formation of bubbles in epoxy resin

  1. It might come from the mixture of part A and part B. Stir with a 1 inch wide flat spatula is your best chance to avoid bubbles.

AVOID AT ALL COSTS

  • Avoid using wooden stick to mix.
  • Mixing too fast, because it will cause more air bubbles to form in the mixture.
  • Leave the mixture to degas before pouring it over the surface to be covered. Be careful, the more you wait after mixing part A and Part B, the thickener the resin will become, especially with FAST SETTING epoxy such as our CHILL DIAMOND FAST and CHILL CLEAR.

 

 

2. It might come from the surface to be covered. Some materials (plaster, wood) are more porous or contain humidity which makes more air bubbles rising to the surface. 

It is recommended to apply a thin layer of resin as a sealer. In this case, there is no need to wait until this layer is completely dry before pouring the resin. It is even recommended to apply the resin while the sealing layer is still a little bit sticky/tacky.

(In French, we say, the resin is “amoureuse”)

Once the resin is poured, any surface bubbles that haven’t burst may be broken using a propane torch. Set the flame to the lowest position and hold it 15 cm from the surface. A hair dryer can be used as an alternative. 

 

I wish the resin be thicker? What can I do ?

We offer different epoxy resins, each one has a different consistency (viscosity). CHILL  3D  1:1 ratio is thicker than all our other epoxy solutions. If you wish to create doming, epoxy beach scenes, effects on a canvas, create lacing or cover a surface with a thicker layer, our CHILL 3D is the best option.

Usually, if you find your resin to be too liquid, we recommend you to prepare your mixture and leave it for a few minutes before pouring it onto the surface to be covered.  Be careful however, not to exceed the Pot Life, otherwise the resin will be cured and it will not be possible to apply it.

Why is it that my resin layer is still sticky in some places?

Once passed the curing timer, if you note that your resin remains sticky, it is very likely that you did not follow strictly the ratio indicated, or that the mixture of part A and part B was not perfectly homogeneous.

You can apply a second layer, this time conforming strictly to instructions of use.

Make sure you read the instruction and follow the proper ratio/mixing procedure (LINK HERE)

My Hardener ( PART B) as turned yellow over the months since it was opened!

The yellowing process of the PART B (Hardener) is unfortunately a natural oxidation that most epoxy will go thought once open.

Our Fast setting (reactive) epoxy solutions ( CHILL 3D, CHILL DIAMOND FAST and CHILL CLEAR  will tend to yellow faster than our Slow Casting Resins ( CHILL ICE 1, CHILL ICE 2 and CHILL DEEP POUR.

We are currently developing an R&D program to study and eventually eliminate as much as possible this oxidation process in our FAST SETTING HARDENER ( PART B).

 

 

Should the my Live Edged be sealed before making a River Table?

Sealing the Live is a great way to avoid getting air/humidity coming out of the wood while the epoxy is curing.

Epoxy also known as “ Thermoset” ( meaning the curing is induced by heat) will open up the wood fibers while curing and might release air/humidity being trapped which can cause bubbles to come out at last minute.

By applying 1-2 coats of our fast setting epoxy CHILL DIAMOND FAST 2:1 ratio, you will create a barrier blocking this air to come out and create bubbles.

NOTE : that every type of wood is different so is their density. High density wood will tend to release air, when low density woods will trap a bigger amount.

For example :

Solid                              Density
                   (103 kg/m3)         (lb/ft3)

Walnut     0.65 – 0.7              40 – 43      
Maple       0.6 – 0.75              39 – 47
Oak           0.6 – 0.9                37 – 56
Pine          0.35 – 0.5              22 – 31

Shipping

How can I track my order?

You will receive an update through email each time we ship one or more article(s) from your order. You can also track the progress of a specific order through the “order tracking” feature of our website or with the shipping company used.

Can I change or modify my order?

To make a change, please contact our customer service at the address: sales@chillepoxy.com

Do not wait too long since we process oders quickly ( 1-2 business days).

Do you ship to the United States?

Yes, we ship everywhere in Canada and Unites-States.

When will I receive my order?

Our products are shipped within 4-7 Days using the following carriers: USPS FedEx UPS . To return your product, you should mail your product to:

6330 Boul. Laurier Ouest, Saint-Hyacinthe Québec Canada J2S 9A7.

You will be responsible for paying for your own shipping costs for returning your item.

Shipping costs are non-refundable. If you receive a refund, the cost of return shipping will be deducted from your refund. Depending on where you live, the time it may take for your exchanged product to reach you, may vary.

If you are shipping an item over $50, you should consider using a trackable shipping service or purchasing shipping insurance. We don’t guarantee that we will receive your returned item.

Are all your products on your website?

We offer a vast selection of products but some products are not available online. Please contact us at info@chillepoxy.com for more information or custom products.

Returns

If I don’t like my resin, can I return it?

Our refund policy is 15 Days. Unfortunately we can’t offer you a refund or exchange after this period. To be eligible for a return, your item must be unused and in the same condition that you received it. It must also be in the original packaging. 

To complete your return, we require a receipt or proof of purchase. Send us an email at sales@chillepoxy.com and send your item to: 6330 Boul. Laurier Ouest Saint-Hyacinthe Québec Canada J2S 9A7.

Refunds (if applicable)

Once your return is received and inspected, we will send you an email to notify you that we have received your returned item. We will also notify you of the approval or rejection of your refund.

If you are approved, then your refund will be processed, and a credit will automatically be applied to your credit card or original method of payment, within a certain amount of days.

Exchanges (if applicable)

We only replace items if they are defective or damaged. If you need to exchange it for the same item, send us an email at sales@chillepoxy.com and send your item to: 6330 Boul. Laurier Ouest Saint-Hyacinthe Québec Canada J2S 9A7.